• 
• 
• 

Technology and the online marketplace is revolutionising the way fashion does business, reports Timothy Holmberg in part two of his coverage of the FINZ Fashion Without Borders conference.

Augmented reality, three dimensional fabric visualisation and mass migration to social media are just some of the digital trends in the fast moving world of fashion.

* * *

As an industry, fashion is relatively young compared to stalwarts such as finance, trade and other creative fields, with mass production only truly coming into play in the 20th Century. While clothing has been around for as long as humanly possible the fashion industry was born through technological advancements, the rise of capitalism, the development of factories and the mass proliferation of retail outlets.

With each passing year the fashion industry has proved to be on the forefront of major global developments. Whether through the creative use of journalism, advertising, celebrity placement, or most recently the expanding digital marketplace, the fashion industry has consistently led the way for other consumer-based industries.

An estimated 50 percent of all retail will be conducted online by 2020 and one of the key topics discussed at the FINZ 2010 Conference was that designers and retailers have had to redefine their processes in order to utilise this medium effectively. The fashion industry is expected to adopt and exploit the multitude of innovative opportunities formed by the increasing adaptability of the Internet.

Robert Buckingham – The Future Laboratory

Robert Buckingham, of industry forecasting agency The Future Laboratory, pointed out that integrated web presence is no longer an added extra for fashion businesses but an expected norm. Real time purchase tracking, shopping applications and social media have become compulsory in consumers’ eyes.

However, some retailers are taking technological integration the next step: particularly with the use of QR codes and barcode scanning. These applications enable to the consumer to scan the product on their mobile device and immediately know the price, fabric details, country of origin, wholesale markup and the best online cost for the garment.

This style of augmented reality has also been developed further by IKEA, who are capitalizing on ‘in the moment’ retailing. Users of the application can integrate photos of their living spaces with product photos to visualise the potential product before purchasing. Online clothing store Tobi also uses augmented reality whereby the customer can use their web-cam to place garments on themselves, save their choices and share online for immediate social network approval.

Other retailers are heading in a different direction by following the mass migration of consumers to social media and pioneering the use of ‘blogtailing’. This is a bottom-up approach to marketing and positions a brand as an opinion leader: essentially controlling their own content.

One brilliant marketing example of this is Burberry’s Art of the Trench website, a living celebration of the brand and its followers. With initial photos taken by renowned street fashion photographer Scott Schuman, of The Sartorialist, the website was slowly populated by people wearing the iconic Burberry trench. The process of sending in an image created a deep, intimate branding experience for the public – each shot would require time to select an outfit, style, location scout and finally shoot. This was an extremely successful undertaking with figures showing an 85 percent increase in trench coat sales following the interactive promotion.

The Digital Revolution – Panel Discussion

FINZ banded together a group of technocrati for their panel discussion on the use of online and social media in the fashion industry. New marketing techniques have been created and geographic boundaries have been reduced through the online marketplace and therefore brands can now occupy the same space as their consumers. Effectively changing the way fashion does business.

Previously magazines were the only definitive source of information for the fashion community. Now the use of media has evolved and to match this, and to target younger markets, the fashion industry has moved online. Fashion consumption has come back to the individual with the increased, targeted information available. The creative spirit and talent shown on the internet is vast, with millions of bloggers combining their unique bricolage of found elements into their own voice.

Designers have also moved online, with some giving viewers live back-stage video access to their fashion week shows, such as Oscar de la Renta. Meanwhile others, like our own Cybele, create capsule collections sold exclusively through their e-stores. Retailers are also using social media outlets to let their online community know when new shipments or products have arrived in-store.

Social media is about creating the chance and space for the community to converse about a brand. This ‘online customer service centre’ provides the perfect opportunity for a company to interact directly with their consumers in an environment that is increasingly being integrated with their everyday lives.

The discussion panel included – Tee Twyford, editor of NZ Girl; Julie Roulston, NZFW social media manager; Glenn Hunt, publisher of 1am; fashion blogger Joanne Faith; and Bryony Hilless, head of corporate communications and PR at 2degrees Mobile.

Sebastian Marino – 77 Pieces Ltd

As a leader in the film industry as a visual effects specialist, with an Academy 'Science and Technology' Award, Sebastian Marino is now looking to apply his knowledge to the fashion realm. Combining fashion and industrial design with the technology behind the latest blockbuster films, he is pioneering software that will revolutionise the apparel industry.

Working on what are called “deformable materials and developable surfaces” – read: fabric in three dimensions – Sebastian is creating software to help create CG clothing for the film industry.

This will have major applications for fashion design and manufacturing by simplifying the pattern making process and aiding in pre-conceptualisation. The programme will feature a 2D pattern screen and a 3D visualisation of the garment: by altering one screen the other will be updated. Pattern grading information will also be instilled into the various working elements.

This also has some interesting potential for online shopping, as consumers can use an avatar with a similar body shape to their own and essentially ‘fit’ garments prior to purchasing them. By integrating clothing physics and strain analysis the fit can be predicted, making online shopping easier and reducing the cost of returns for the retailer.

Related Story: Fashion Without Borders Part 1 - industry issues and global developments.

Thank you to Fashion Industry New Zealand (FINZ) and the Auckland City Council for having me as a guest at the FINZ 2010 Conference.